Monday, July 28, 2014

Steampunk Corset (Bustier)

My niece wanted a steampunk corset and I was delighted to volunteer. Always looking for a new challenge! One big consideration in the pattern choice is that my niece does not have a lot of experience wearing restrictive garments, such as ren faire bodices, tight-lace hourglass corsets, etc. I decided on a simple bustier type "corset" (in quotes) to get her started.

I chose Simplicity pattern #1819, the steampunk bolero outfit.


It's a solid wraparound piece that laces up the back, so there is no busk.

My first step was to trace the pattern pieces according to her measurements. I used my trusty French curve from the dollar store.



Then the cutting happens. My niece purchased some very nice black coutil, which cuts like a dream...



...and I marked the pieces with chalk to keep myself from going crazy.

For the fashion fabric, she bought this heavy vinyl pleather-type stuff with a felt backing. It's gorgeous but it had some challenges for the pins and the scissors. I ended up tracing on the wrong side with chalk and cutting, instead of trying to jam a pin through the pattern paper.




Getting it through the sewing machine also required some adjustments. I used my trusty office supplies to clip the vinyl pieces together instead of trying to get a pin into it.



A great trick I learned from a Carol Wood corset workshop, I used a cardboard form tube from the hardware store that is usually used as a mold for cement pillars. It approximates the curve of a human body, so I draped the vinyl over the black coutil lining.



I had some fiddling to do with making the 2 different textures mesh together. When I stitched-in-the-ditch to stabilize the seams, the one on the end did not quite synch up. But it only shows on the inside!


There it is laid out before I put in the grommets and the boning channels. I can't wait to visit her and try it on! We'll talk about the embellishments.

Oh, and I made a little top hat to match.